The midwinter chill had come early this year, with frost visible every morning throughout the city.
Toward the end of the month, even the city streets were dusted with a light snowfall.
At dawn, Kang He swept the neatly piled snow off the shop’s entrance, his breath rising in white clouds.
The merchants opening their stalls along the street all moved cautiously, their brooms stiff and cold as if carved from ice, making their hands numb upon contact.
Even the pork felt stiff to the touch. Handling two baskets of pork, either hanging or laid out on the stall, Chen Sanfang’s hands had long since gone numb.
Fan Jing couldn’t stay indoors and had braved the cold to come to the city early that morning.
Before dawn, he had already hitched the cart to the city. The wind was as sharp as knives against his face. Kang He hadn’t wanted Fan Jing to suffer so much and suggested he stay home.
Fan Jing agreed and had indeed stayed home for two days before.
But without Kang He watching, Fan Jing couldn’t sit still; at home he chopped firewood, fetched water, and fed the pigs without a moment’s rest.
Fan Jing’s father didn’t dare argue with him, and the two girls’ complaints fell on deaf ears.
It was only when Kang He returned home that afternoon and Zhen’er secretly told him of the complaints that he understood.
Kang He scolded Fan Jing thoroughly. Fan Jing had been doing those chores just to frighten people.
But who would have guessed that after promising to stop, the next day he was out again at the foot of the mountain shooting birds and wild pigeons with his longbow. Villagers heading into the city saw him and warned Kang He, who, startled, dropped his butcher’s knife and hurriedly drove the cart home.
After all the fuss, Kang He decided it was better to have someone accompany Fan Jing into the city to work at the stall. Keeping an eye on him from under the counter was better than not seeing what he was up to.
Fan Jing wore a thick cotton jacket trimmed with fur at the collar, bundled up tightly.
He had spent most of his life on the mountain, where the temperature was low, so in the village during midwinter, he hadn’t felt much cold before and preferred lighter clothing, disliking cumbersome layers.
Now with a child, he was noticeably more sensitive to the cold. Since the child was just a few months old, he no longer chopped wood or carried water, and he was less robust than before, his body more susceptible to the chill.
Back in the city, Kang He didn’t ask him to do any heavy work, fearing he might get hurt opening the stall.
This had caused friction between them; they had argued twice over it. Kang He had no choice but to let Fan Jing do what he wanted.
Fan Jing took to doing light tasks so that Kang He had to keep a close watch on him. Near the year’s end, when the pork stall was busy, Kang He had to go watch the butchering, adding to his workload. So in the end, Kang He agreed to let Fan Jing avoid strenuous chores.
Fan Jing went to the back room to stoke the stove and boil water for the others.
He took a few chunks of black charcoal from the basket and placed them in the brazier, lighting them carefully so they burned cleanly without much smoke. He carried it into the room, where the numb hands could warm themselves.
With the pork stall set up, Kang He and Chen Sanfang came inside to wash their hands with hot water.
The sky was just beginning to brighten, and the morning market was already bustling with activity.
The street market would take a little longer to come alive.
Kang He, after finishing his tasks, brought over three bowls of steaming lamb offal soup.
Just then, he ran into He Xiaoqiu, who was carrying some marinated snacks to the stall.
Kang He gave He Xiaoqiu a bowl, handed one to Chen Sanfang, and the two of them shared a bowl with Fan Jing.
“Today’s snow has really chilled everything,” He Xiaoqiu said politely, taking a sip of the lamb offal soup. The hot soup eased the cold that had seeped into his body.
Chen Sanfang helped unpack the marinated snacks, placing them on the stall.
Originally, they prepared five or six jin of marinated goose per batch, but now in winter, it was only two or three jin.
There wasn’t much marinated meat either; first, because pork sold well in midwinter, second, because it kept longer, and third, marinated snacks generally sold better in warm weather.
As daylight spread over the long street, more and more buyers appeared.
Within an hour or so, the street grew lively, and customers crowded around the pork stall, keeping the meat cutters busy.
In winter, people preferred hot soups and stews, and city households liked to buy pork bones for radish soup.
Fan Jing cut the meat while Kang He practiced knife skills beside him, and Chen Sanfang called out to attract customers at the entrance.
Business at the marinated snack stall was much quieter; He Xiaoqiu managed it all by himself.
Now he was no longer afraid of people. Though not as smooth-talking as Kang He or Chen Sanfang, he was charming enough and very quick and capable.
Besides, having worked the stall for a long time, he had picked up some skills.
Kang He was glad He Xiaoqiu helped with the marinated snacks.
It meant more hands on deck, and since both families ran the business together, having someone watching the stall made things easier.
By the end of the morning market, the pork was nearly sold out, but the marinated snacks barely moved, not even the previously popular marinated goose sold well.
He Xiaoqiu tallied the accounts. After costs, each family still made over ten strings of copper coins.
With the cold setting in, they’d earned five strings the previous month. If the trend continued, the midwinter would be colder and business slower, just as it always was in winter, even back when He Xiaoqiu’s father went out selling.
Kang He was aware of this problem.
At lunch, as they sat around the brazier eating homemade food, he brought up the marinated snack business.
“In midwinter, the cold makes people not want cold dishes like in summer. Our own ‘Ruotou’ tofu depends on the season.
“In summer, people don’t like buying it for stewing, so it sells poorly compared to winter, and it doesn’t keep long. Sometimes it goes sour in half a day and has to be thrown out.”
Kang He said, “There’s no changing the seasons; farmers rely on the weather. We can’t change the seasons either, but we can adapt what we sell.”
“That’s why in summer, we spend more effort making ‘Ruotou’ vermicelli, which goes well mixed with radish and lettuce as a cold salad and sells better.”
Chen Sanfang nodded.
Seeing He Xiaoqiu’s spirits lower than usual, she picked some savory minced meat and put it into his bowl.
“Don’t lose heart. Things will get better. Business never goes perfectly smooth.”
He Xiaoqiu nodded. “Thanks, aunty. I know.”
Kang He felt enduring was one thing, but they couldn’t just endure. The cold months made up half the year.
Since the business was shared, solutions should be sought together. He couldn’t just let the pork business thrive in winter and ignore the marinated snacks.
“I went early this morning to buy lamb soup and saw that even a small stall had a long line of people waiting for a bowl to warm themselves.”
Kang He said, “But the lamb soup’s flavor wasn’t that great. The business is just good because it’s warm.”
“Our marinated meat is cold and not appealing in this season. Usually, people only buy some for entertaining guests, placing cold dishes on the table for show, so business is quiet.”
“If you ask me, we should try selling it hot.”
He Xiaoqiu asked, “You mean hot marinated meat?”
“That’s right. Cold marinated meat is just taken from a hot pot and left to cool. Why not have a stove and sell it hot as it simmers? Customers could take it straight from the pot.”
“The flavor of hot marinated meat will be different, but people want warmth. No matter how good cold marinated meat tastes, it doesn’t suit the season, and the appeal drops. Hot marinated meat, even if slightly less tasty, suits the season and draws customers.”
Chen Sanfang said, “I think that’s a good idea.”
He Xiaoqiu considered it and said, “Enduring the cold isn’t a solution. Trying something is better than doing nothing and just worrying. I’ll discuss it with my parents.”
Chen Sanfang said, “Right, talk it over with your family. It’s a family business; everything should be agreed upon.”
Within a few days, the Fan family’s stall had set up a deep iron pot.
Once the fire was lit, the marinating liquid boiled and bubbled, the aroma wafting even with the lid on.
The He family’s aged marinade had been carefully preserved for years.
Its rich fragrance made even the fatty goose and pork cheeks tender and flavorful.
When the lid was lifted and the spoon stirred, the aroma drifted far and wide.
“What are you cooking? It smells so good!”
Early in the morning at the stall, it was the first time He Xiaoqiu had seen hot marinated meat being prepared at the market.
He was carefully tending the pot, and Fan Jing was helping.
Passersby caught the enticing scent and couldn’t resist asking.
Chen Sanfang, with her smooth tongue, said, “It’s our stall’s marinated meat. We used to sell it cold, but in the freezing winter, it might upset people’s stomachs, so we started selling it hot to keep people warm.”
She handed a small slice of meat from the pot to a plump woman nearby who had come to ask.
The woman picked at it with her toothpick, savoring the tender, oily, and fragrant meat.
Though marinated, it wasn’t greasy, and the warmth made it taste excellent.
She had bought the cold marinated meat before, and the marinated goose was expensive.
She had bought it several times in summer despite a tight budget but had stopped eating it in winter because cold food was unpleasant.
“How’s the flavor? Not bad, right?”
The woman, getting an idea for other meats to buy, replied, “It’s good, but I still think the cold version in summer tastes better.”
Chen Sanfang was a little annoyed but said, “This is our first time selling hot marinated meat, so we didn’t prepare much. If you want some, I’ll set some aside for you. When you go to the vegetable market later, bring it back, and we’ll reheat it for you to enjoy warm.”
She offered another piece of marinated meat.
“If you don’t want it, I won’t keep it. Everyone’s tastes differ. If you only like summer’s cold version, wait for warm weather and I’ll give you a discount.”
The plump woman appreciated Chen Sanfang’s kindness and said, “I know you well now. I’ll buy pork from your stall from now on.”
After chatting a while, the woman left with her basket toward the main street.
He Xiaoqiu kept busy, sneaking glances at Chen Sanfang talking to customers, handing out samples of hot marinated meat, and seeing people willing to spend.
He gained some confidence.
After all, he had been in charge of the kitchen at home, and his father handled sales at the market. Now that he was at the stall, he paid more attention.
“Aunty, is someone complaining about the flavor?”
“Not at all,” Chen Sanfang said. “When she tasted it, she wanted to chew it all up. I guess she just came prepared with a certain amount of money but couldn’t say so and had to say she preferred summer’s cold marinade.”
She patted He Xiaoqiu’s back. “Don’t worry. It’s still early. People come sniffing out the aroma before the market even starts. When the crowd grows, how could they not buy?”
He Xiaoqiu felt reassured.
Kang He, busy with the pork, said, “If it doesn’t sell well, I’ll cover the cost of the new stove myself.”
He Xiaoqiu laughed, “That would be too much.”
Before long, the aroma drew more people on the street.
Even without shouting to attract customers, the scent alone pulled them in.
People who had only bought cold marinated meat started to favor the hot version.
To enjoy a warm bite, they placed orders early at the morning market and brought back pork and hot marinade together.
“But what if they want it delivered by noon? I have a gathering at home and if I buy too early, it’ll get cold by then,” He Xiaoqiu said, a bit worried.
Kang He came over. “Just give a rough time. When the stall is free, someone will personally deliver it to you. If I’m busy and can’t leave, I’ll ask a runner to take it to your home.”
“That’ll work,” said the customer.
The customer ordered a whole marinated goose weighing over four jin, six jin of pork bones, two jin of pork knuckles, one jin of fatty rabbit, a whole chicken, and a duck.
The fresh meat was all taken away; only the marinated goose remained, still hot.
He Xiaoqiu, seeing the crowd, worried about mixing up orders and selling the wrong meat. He carefully weighed the goose, placing it in a covered basin.
After the busy morning market, the pork was nearly sold out, and for the first time, the marinated meat stall had completely cleared its stock.
Everyone was pleased. Although they hadn’t prepared much for the first day selling hot marinade, clearing the stall proved the business was good.
Chen Sanfang’s mouth was dry from talking all morning.
Fan Jing and Kang He sipped their hot soup while she rested, watching as the plump woman who had asked about hot marinade came by again.
The woman peered around and said, “My sister is coming to eat at my house today. I want to add a dish to the table. I tried your hot marinade before and want her to taste the marinated goose too.”
Chen Sanfang slapped her thigh. “Oh! You came too late today. We didn’t prepare much meat, and it’s all sold out. The rest was already ordered and will be reheated and delivered on time.”
The woman sighed.
“Thanks for remembering to come buy hot marinade here. Too bad you missed out. Come early tomorrow, and I’ll set some aside for you.”
She wrapped a strip of meat around a rib bone and put it in the woman’s basket. “Have this for your soup base today.”
The woman agreed to come buy hot marinade tomorrow but was now left craving it.
If she had accepted Chen Sanfang’s offer earlier, she wouldn’t be so tempted on the way to the vegetable market.
Selling hot marinade continued well for several days.
By the twelfth lunar month, many customers came for pork and hot marinade.
The Fan family’s stall had two sides, left and right, which had worked well until they added the stove.
The stall grew crowded.
Customers buying both pork and hot marinade sometimes blocked the adjacent double-line street entrance.
At first, it was manageable.
Before opening, Kang He even delivered salted duck to neighbors as a friendly gesture.
They placed the stove near the oil shop next door.
But business next door at the double-line street was poor.
Since the Fan stall opened, many customers came and went past that neighbor.
The owner was an older man. His wife ran the shop, as he rarely appeared.
They had previously hired a young woman to help but let her go after autumn when they stopped paying her.
The young woman had asked Chen Sanfang if she could work at the pork stall.
Chen Sanfang thought the girl clever but declined because they already had enough staff.
The double-line street stall was struggling.
Seeing the thriving business next door, the owner grew unhappy.
One day, seeing customers crowding his shop entrance, he angrily swept the doorway, deliberately hitting the waiting customers.
Frustrated and already impatient from waiting, the customers argued with the owner, left without buying anything.
Chen Sanfang, annoyed, waited until the morning rush died down before going over to speak with the neighbor.
Unlike in the village, she kept her temper and tried to reason.
The owner saw her approaching with some hot marinated meat and immediately rejected it.
“What is this? Bringing your stuff here? Nobody wants it. Take it away! The smell is unbearable.”
“You’re so rude,” Chen Sanfang replied politely at first but then lost her temper. “You say the good food smells bad? Are you expecting pearls from an old clam?”
“You’re talking nonsense.”
“You say I’m nonsense, but do you think our business is good or bad?”
“My shop’s entrance, I can sweep anyone away I want. Your hot marinade smells terrible and stinks up my place. That’s all I have to say!
“Even the noodle place told me to hurry up and get your stove out of here!”
Chen Sanfang saw the man was looking for trouble and stopped being polite.
Hands on hips, she shouted, “If you can’t run your business, don’t blame others! We bring so many good customers here, but none come into your stall. I wonder what kind of shabby goods you sell!
“If you want us to move our stove, we’ll move it. Don’t act like you’re some official. You don’t know how to manage your own business.”
The man was stung and yelled back, “Shrew! Country bumpkin! Your business won’t last long!”
Their quarrel escalated quickly.
Kang He and Fan Jing rushed over to separate them.
Chen Sanfang’s anger was so fierce the neighbor barely ate lunch.
He Xiaoqiu, worried about trouble, privately approached Kang He and Fan Jing.
“Our hot stove is making the neighbors unhappy. Maybe we should cut back.”
“It’s not the smell,” Kang He said. “It’s because our business is doing so well they’re jealous.
“There’s always been an oil shop nearby that makes a stink. They never complained.”
“There are plenty of smelly shops in the market — restaurants, taverns, all sorts. Our smell isn’t foul.
“We’ve been considerate of neighbors. We can’t just back down because they’re unhappy and bullied us.”
He Xiaoqiu didn’t argue further.
About half a month later, Kang He and Fan Jing arrived at the stall to find the neighbor’s shop closed for several days.
They didn’t know what had happened.
Bao Sange, a friendly runner who helped deliver hot marinade, stopped by at noon.
Kang He gave him a piece of marinated meat and asked if he knew what was going on.
“Don’t you know what’s going on next door?”
Kang He shook his head. “We fought a while ago and now they don’t speak.”
“Their shoe shop is terrible. The business was always bad. The owner’s husband runs an herbal medicine business in the city. Even if the shop doesn’t make money, he can still afford it.
“But he lost money this fall. The rent hasn’t been paid for months.
“The city tax collectors want their share by year-end. No one lets rent slide, even if it means hardship.
“They argued, and now the shop won’t reopen.”
Kang He said, “How do you know so much? I’m right next door and don’t know anything.”
Bao Sange laughed, “I’m the type who finds things out. Plus, the owner’s wife lives in the same alley as me, so I know better.”
Kang He nodded and asked, “Will the shop be rented out again?”
“Of course. An empty shop is useless. You have to rent it out to earn money.
“The taxes are high. Leaving it empty is just losing money.”
Kang He asked, “Could you find out how much the rent is?”
“No problem. My cousin works in the tax office. I’ll ask and tell you.”
Fan Jing, hearing their talk, saw Bao Sange leave and asked Kang He, “Why are you asking about the rent? Do you want to rent the shop?”
“Just checking the price, not promising to rent.”
Kang He said, “Our hot marinade stall is a bit cramped. A few days ago, customers crowded so close they almost fell into the pot. It scared me.”
“I’m thinking if the neighboring shop is suitable, we could take it over and specialize in marinated meat.
“Both hot and cold marinade business is good enough to support a shop. Having a shop means we can marinate on-site instead of running around every day.”
“Of course, that’s just my idea. We still have to talk to the He family.”
Fan Jing said, “He Xiaoqiu said if things go well, he wants to open a shop too.”
Kang He said, “We’ll check out the shop’s situation first and then discuss it with the He family.”